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Monday, January 4, 2016

Around Tasmania

An overnight ferry ride from Melbourne dropped me off in Tasmania as a pink sun rose pale and cool over the sea. I had spent a week in Melbourne and was excited to be on the move again. My plan was to bike a clockwise lap around the island sticking to the coast as much as I could.

For such a small place Tasmania had a large variety of landscapes. There were beautiful white sand beaches in the north. I hung my hammock between tall white eucalyptus trees in the east. The south took on a dense jungle appearance. In the west I crossed mountains and pedaled through alpine landscapes. There were giant trees rivaling the largest I've seen anywhere. Rivers flowing at the coast had soaked up forest tannins to become the color of oolong tea. In the mountains, streams were clear and cool as fresh rain puddles.

I was excited to find interesting animals too. Wallabies hopped through the forest around me in the evenings. Echidnas waddled alongside the roads. They look like porcupines but have long thin noses and I was told by locals that they lay eggs. I didn't see any Tasmanian Devils but listened to them growling one night as I fell asleep. Traveling a remote road on the west coast I spotted a feral cat that must have weighed 40 pounds. It was all black with yellow eyes that stared at me before slinking into the bush.

I had a breakdown on one of the quietest roads I've ever been on. A bearing in my rear hub disintegrated leaving my wheel good for pushing but not for riding. It happened in the early afternoon on the longest day of the year. I had a day of food with me and 60 miles to go before the next town. I pushed for hours until the light gave out without a single car passing me. In the morning I got up early to carry on. I had made it almost halfway to town before the first passing car stopped to give me a ride. It was a French brother and sister spending a year touring around Australia. I spent two days with them sightseeing and camping and looking for replacement bearings in bike shops. Eventually I took my broken bike to the ferry. I cruised through the night to arrive in Melbourne on Christmas morning. I am in the process of getting a new wheel built now.

While waiting for my new wheel I am on a forced break from cycling. I visited Ben and his family at their dairy farm where I spent a day as a mostly incompetent farm hand. In the evening we hunted rabbits from the back of a truck with a spot light. Heading back to Melbourne from the farm, Ben and I took a road trip along the famously beautiful Great Coastal Road. I spent a day helping to build a house, a rare bit of tangible productivity which felt good. I hiked through a gorge and swam in its clear green river. For the new year I watched fantastic fireworks over Melbourne. All fun things, I am missing bike touring though. I bought a plane ticket to Cape Town, I need another continent to get my fix.

 Western Tasmania. 

 The Twelve Apostles, near the Great Ocean road. 


The kangaroos were elusive but I've gotten requests for pictures. This is the best I got. 

 This is a wallaby in action. 

 Thank you for the rescue Charlyne and Janson! 



 A fat car in the Museum of Old and New Art. 


 Nice hammock trees in Tasmania. I watched a meteor shower from here. 

 An Achidna. 


 On a hike in Victoria. 

In Melbourne.