Warm welcome to Russia

I'm now in Russia. I took the ferry from Kerch. Upon arriving in Russia the other ferry passengers took an interest in me as we waited to pass through customs. No one spoke English but that never seems to matter much. I was given a pen and chocolate as welcome gifts, not from Russia, from the passengers. Russia did not even have a welcome sign so I posed in front of a war monument, for those keeping track of how disheveled I look as I pass into new countries. The customs agent actually did speak English and was very friendly and helpful. Like at every border crossing I was waived through without an inspection.

My second day in Russia a man on a motorcycle pulled up and though he didn't speak any English offered to buy me lunch. I followed him to a cafe and we ate without talking but I think we both appreciated the company.

The next day I tagged along with a group of cyclists for my final 20 miles. One of them offered their back yard to camp in. Upon arrival I found that I would be hanging my hammock from a cherry tree ready for picking! Such a treat. Her parents and sister were there as well and we had a great home cooked dinner and home made wine. After dinner we retreated to the basement for a game of pool. Russian pool is played on a larger table than in America. The pool balls are bigger as well but the pockets are smaller. The goal is to be the first to hit in 8 balls. Doesn't matter the order or color, just get them in. I lost 8 to 1. On my way out after breakfast the next morning I was given a painted wooden egg and 2 liters of the home made wine as parting gifts. The egg is beautiful and the wine I have been drinking for dessert.

My fourth day in Russia I met a young man on a bicycle tour going my way. We rode together for close to 50 miles. He didn't speak English but at a gas station with wifi we were able to have a Google Translate conversation. We parted ways at the end of the day but his company was really nice. As I was looking for a camping spot I found a mulberry bush! Fresh berries were falling into my hands.

Since then I have been stopped daily by curious onlookers. Few people speak English but I get across where I started, where I am going, that I'm American and how far I've gone so far. People seem very satisfied with that amount of information and also very impressed. A group of gas station employees even gave me a gas station branded towel and hand lotion as a thank you for stopping.

Now in Volgograd I have a hotel room overlooking the river. The camping has been good, though more bugs are appearing. The roads are descent, quiet and often times have shoulders! Now I hope Russia sustains it's hospitality!

A tourist in Ukraine.

I've made it through Ukraine. It had expansive farm fields, soaring mountains and scary drivers. Ukrainian drivers pass at every opportunity. Sometimes choosing the middle of the road to squeeze between who they are passing and oncoming traffic. I think that if you drive like this for long enough passing a cyclist within inches doesn't feel that close. Well it feels close to me!

On my way to Simferpol and the Crimea coast I had stopped at a small outdoor market for supplies. A man approached to say hi and and within an hour I was a guest of honor in his home. Showering, doing laundry, and being fed more than I could eat. The next day his son took me to a nearby battlefield where he proceeded to dig into the hillside and find 4 types of shell casings and a 1941 German penny, which he gave to me as a souvenir.

Next was Simferpol, where I met my parents! They flew out and drove a dozen hours from Kiev. Catching a ride with Eugene, our super knowledgeable and entertaining tour guide for the week. I left my bike for most of the week in Simferpol while we toured the coast by car. We visited a cave city made by people on a hilltop, an actual cave made by water, a Russian Tsar palace, more battlefields. Normally I spend hours or days looking at the road and scenery before getting to these types of highlights. It was a pace I'm not used to but easy to adjust to and a welcome change.

Eugene took me on a treasure hunt near the cave city. Using his GPS device I tracked down a bottle of wine he had hidden 5 years earlier. We also went wine tasting and before leaving town Eugene invited us for more wine and dinner with his family. It was all lovely and the sites were beautiful and the coast was beautiful and if you need one more reason to visit, Eugene's daughter, Nadia, organizes a big music festival every year (www.sosedniymir.ru).

On my way towards Kerch and the ferry to Russia I met another cycle tourist. The first I've seen in a while and the first I've biked with at all on this trip. We biked together for an hour or so before heading different directions. It was a fitting end to Ukraine. The roads rarely had a shoulder and were in rough condition, but the camping was great and the sights were pretty and the people were always friendly.

Party in Moldova!

Moldova was full of nice farm fields and small towns but the highlight for my short time there was a May 9 celebration. That is the end of World War 2 and it is a big deal in Soviet Union countries.

While taking a break to fill my water for one of the many wells along the road I met a man on his motorcycle who invited me to a May 9 Moldova motorcycle rally in the nearby town of Bender. The party had started by the time I arrived. Moldovan wine, cognac, Moldovan beer, and Russian Vodka were on the menu. Being the only person there on a bicycle and from so far away (I actually won an award for that) I had a lot of interested people to explain myself to. Over the two days I spent there I can say I've never felt more welcome to a party. Everyone was so excited to drink with me, then feed me so that I didn't get too drunk, then take a picture, then drink with me more! Enough people spoke enough English that communication wasn't too difficult.

On my second at there I rode on the back of a motorcycle as the group paraded around the area to several war monuments and a castle. Veterans came to the camping area to tell their story in the afternoon and then the party continued with a live band, fireworks, belly dancers and a few bike competitions. I was even interviewed for the local television station. By the end of the weekend I had made several dear friends and I went 1-4 in arm wrestling, losing to both Russians and Moldovans.

So it was a wonderful experience in Moldova. Now, on the way out of the country I was given 2 liters of Moldova wine to keep me warm.

Across Romania

Romania had its beautiful moments and it's tiring moments but the camping never failed me.

I traveled mostly through farmland only exiting when the hills became too steep, and this hilly farm country was often amazing to bike through. Several days including picturesque snow capped mountains in the distance. An important point here is that they were in the distance to my right and not the approaching horizon in front of me. I did not go through the mountains but instead had plenty of foothills to make me sweat. Usually the days reached the high 80s. Many of the small towns I went through had wells with a bucket to dip into them or just springs flowing all the time onto the street. These were so prevalent that I don't think their was running water in the houses, just a few wells on every block.

Another common sight were horse drawn carts. Still a very useful way to get around here. The horses would sometimes be on a break eating a front yard at the side of the road. Cows were often doing this too however the sheep always had dedicated shepherds walking them about in large groups.

The small towns certainly had the farming feel, but the cities were very nice with big parks and many statues. I even saw a couple of castles one of which had a moat. Less people spoke English here than I've been experiencing, but I had a lot of people approach me and ask questions. A couple of times cyclists joined me for a few miles as well. Many people bicycled or walked between towns and hitchhikers were common place.

The people were friendly the roads were generally good and I found really nice camping every night. So if you want to see farms and farm animals in a rustic environment then go visit Romania. Be warned though. I was chased by dogs, sometimes in packs, several times a day. So whether it is first thing in the morning and you aren't warmed up yet or you are climbing a hill at the end of a long day, be prepared to sprint.